We get quite a few emails with drive shaft angle questions, recently we had a customer looking for help with some binding issues. We figured it would be a good tech note for others!
It has been a few months but i finally got things almost back together. The issue i have now is that my front drive shaft is binding at the axle joint. With weight on the springs and the truck sitting on the ground it does not bind but as soon as i raise the truck about an inch or so it starts to bind.
I noticed that these springs don't have a degree wedge. My old skyjacker 8” springs did have a wedge. I think I need to get some degree shims. My plan is to loosen the u bolts and use a jack to rotate the axle and measure the change in angle. How much can I safely rotate the axle.? This is a stock dana 60.
The main cause of this is i had to move my drive train forward t...
Check out this old article from Four Wheeler on our steering arms with Reid Knuckles
Written by Jordan Jones May 1, 2009
Link to original article HERE
The Dana 44 and the closely related 10-Bolt are two of the most commonly used front axles around. It comes as no surprise that the aftermarket provides such a multitude of readily-available upgrades. We've got a few of these axles under trucks ourselves- one in particular that needed some steering help. And being that our axle is under a '73-'87 Chevy, the factory steering system guiding that axle can become inadequate when suspension travel is increased. The stock GM design uses a draglink that runs parallel with the frame, correctly following the path that the leaf springs take the axle when compressing and rebounding. This is...
The pitman arm is a key part of any steering system involving a steering box, since it’s literally the part that bolts to the output shaft of the steering box. So here are some details about various GM pitman arms and why we use the parts we do.
In the GM squarebody (and even earlier) world, the 4wd trucks use a different steering box output shaft and pitman arm arrangement than 2wds. On a 4wd, the pitman arm points to the side of the truck and the draglink runs toward the back of the truck to the steering knuckle. On a 2wd, the pitman arm points straight back and moves the centerlink side to side to move the tierods to steer the tires.
Here’s a question we get all the time: “What axle gears should I use for my combination?”
Obviously there are a lot of engine, transmission, tire size, vehicle weight and intended use combinations but here are some general guidelines and specific recommendations.
In general we like to gear a lifted truck to run more RPM rather than less. Usually a lifted truck ends up with bigger tires, exterior accessories that add aerodynamic drag, the lift itself adding aerodynamic drag and often bigger axles, transfer cases and transmissions that make our power requirements greater. Your typical lifted K5 Blazer can very easily end up with the equivalent load of a loaded down pickup so we tend to look at gearing systems for heavier rated factory trucks or towing packages for lighter rated factory trucks. The big thing you see is that they’re geared deeper, no big secret.
The first thing to consider is if you...
We are working with a second generation Kevlar reinforced polyurethane bushing material that is proving to be another step stronger and more durable. At this time the new material is only available in the same grey color as our Kevlar tierod end boots. Due to shortages in all our materials we are not able to offer most of our kits in all grey or all black for immediate shipment. If we ship at regular in-stock timing you will receive a mix of grey and black and we have very limited control over what bushings are what color. We understand some of you are working on some super good looking truck builds and we don’t mind a bit doing all we can to make our stuff match for you. To help you keep it all looking matched up we are offering the option to hold your order and ship all black bushings as they are available. This option will be a mix of our Kevlar bushings and regular polyurethane but the colors do match and will be all black. T...
Here is a reloaded page from our old website
This section shows you ORD rigs and our customers' rigs in action on the toughest and best trails in the country.
We've grouped these photos roughly by suspension type -- leaf springs front and rear; front coils with rear leaves; and coil springs at all four corners. Whichever setup you like, we're pretty confident that we -- and ORD customers -- have built and 'wheeled the very best of each breed using ORD parts.
David Kennedy's K5 at 4WOR'S Ultimate Adventure '05
KOH 2012 was GREAT! We finished 12th overall out of a field of 137. We're really hungry for a top 10 but this is our best finish yet and we can see the top from here. We have pictures and comments on our Facebook page HERE.
There are also some good pics on our photobucket page HERE.
GoPro video of our qualifying run with a good near rollover HERE.
GoPro video of the first 2 hours of our race HERE
Below is the build thread on Cheap Truck from our old website!
One piece of advice we often throw out for anyone building a truck on a budget is to pick up someone else's truck or even just an abandoned project. You can get a great deal on some good parts that way, or even pick up a complete running truck that just needs some tuning to get it dialed in. Just to prove the point, we decided to put our money where our mouth is and now we have our "Cheap Truck".
We actually had a local guy come to the shop to tell us about this truck he was selling because he was moving, hadn't used it in years and just needed it gone. It's a '74 long bed 3/4-T with a fresh GM 350 (335hp maybe?),...
Below is the build thread on Burly Burb from our old website!
This buildup runs in chronographic order, the earliest mods at the top and the latest mods at the end.
Our green K5 has been getting a little bit biased toward trail use, so when it came time to pick up a general purpose traveling, camping, fourwheeling truck, we ended up with this '88 Suburban. Now that 3 kids are part of the general traveling package, the full size rear doors are great to have and the cavernous interior means we can carry all the people and gear we need, and sleep in the truck too.
The overall goal is to leave it low enough to get decent gas mileage,...
Below is the build thread on Wally from our old website!
Wally, our K5, morphed again. This time in response to a bent and twisted front axle housing, a desire for better side clearance, a bunch of bent up metal and of course a desire to improve performance.
Here it is on the trail in Poteau:
Below are some old magazine articles that we had on our website:
We're grateful ( and kinda proud, too) that the major four-wheel drive magazines have included us in their pages, on their TV shows and videos so many times over the years.
Below: Our green monster made the 4WOR cover!
It gives us the idea that ORD products and our particular brand of 'wheelin wackiness must be on the right track!
This is where we'll share some of our magazine coverage - features on our rigs, plus tech and installation articles involving our products. Check out the first samples by clicking...
Below is the build thread on Cousin Willard from our old website!
Cousin Willard started life at ORD as a battered
Below is a customer question about leaning springs and what to do to remedy the situation. We figured it could be helpful for many people:
A lean is fairly common and is a byproduct of a soft spring and kind of unique to this truck platform because the front springs’ mounting width is fairly narrow. A small difference in the height of the springs can make an exaggerated difference in side to side height and a small weight difference can also also cause an exaggerated ride height change. To put some numbers on it, the springs are about 32” center to center and the outside of the body where you see and measure is about 80”. The body has about 2.5:1 leverage over the springs so a ¼” change at the spring pad should convert to 5/8” at the body line. It also works the opposite for weight, any weight change has a big lever arm over the springs and makes itself look way bigger than it should.
We have yet to have a spring problem that was causing a lean so I’m betting your...
Below is the original text from the build thread copy and pasted here. Some of the text might not make much sense since some of the conversation is missing. To find the whole thread check out HERE
Also you can find the parts we used HERE
Now the only thing left in the truck is the long block.:shaking:
We actually shopped a little for this truck, we wanted the 88-98 type body style with the big block and after our recent headaches with 4L80's we really wanted the NV4500. Plus I've never wheeled a properly set up truck (low geared) with a manual so it'll be fun driving something different. We wanted a running driving truck so that we wouldn't be building an engine...