Radius Arm Traction Bar
Tired of traction robbing, parts breaking spring wrap? Here's the fix. Our traction bar positively eliminates wheel hop letting you use the go-pedal without a second thought.
How does it work? Our beefy mounting bracket welds solidly to the axle tube and the torque arm itself bolts in so that when the housing tries to rotate up, the end of the traction bar has to rise. With the end of the bar attached solidly to the frame through the shackle and crossmember it can't rise so the rear can't rotate and snap back.
How about articulation? Since we use a spherical urethane joint at the tip of the bar, it can twist freely and when the axle steers under articulation the urethane bushings can twist side to side to prevent bind.
Installation requires welding to the axle tube (no welding to the casting) and to the optional crossmember.
Why not two traction bars?
Basically the axle is a beam so stopping one side from twisting stops axle wrap through the whole axle. And adding a second traction bar over-constrains the system and actually binds up the suspension.
Our traction bars come in four different lengths. The idea is to put the longest traction bar you can under your truck; Blazers usually use the 40" traction bar, short bed pickups usually use the 49" or 55" traction bar and Suburbans and long bed pickups usually use the 55" or 64" traction bar. Measure your truck and see which length will work best for you, be sure to consider where you can mount a crossmember so that it won't interfere with your rear driveshaft. A typical ballpark is to measure from the front of the axle tube to the u-joint at the back of the transfer case.
10 and 12 bolt axles use 3" axle tubes, both versions of 14 bolt (SF 9.5" and FF 10.5") use 3-3/8" axle tubes.
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