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Dana 60 Crossover Steering

Dana 60 crossover steering instructions

Keep in mind that while our main specialty is the GM fullsize trucks, most of our steering components will work with other vehicles than just fullsize GM trucks, if you have a kingpin Dana 60 axle in another vehicle type, let us know and we'll work out a customized kit for you.  We have assembled systems for vehicles ranging from a simple GM D60 in a Jeep to oddballs like van conversions.

The straight axle GM trucks suffer from some serious steering problems, one of the biggest is due to poor geometry.  The factory GM steering will fail to steer the truck when you're in twisted offroad situations.  In fact, there are many times when the steering box is all the way to lock and the tires are pointed straight!  Our solution to this is a "crossover steering" system where the draglink runs side to side instead of front to back. This dramatically improves the steering geometry and makes turning to the axle stops possible under all conditions.

Solid axle conversions virtually always need crossover steering as well.

The parts required to do a crossover steering on a GM truck with a Dana 60 front axle are pictured below:

Click Here to Order Complete ORD Crossover Steering Systems


Offroad Design crossover steering features:


We stock dozens of versions of our crossover steering for specific trucks/lift heights and axles.  Our draglinks are already cut to the correct length and directly threaded (not welded).  If needed the draglink is bent to help tie rod end angle and to clear the engine/crossmember.  Our draglinks use heavy wall 1020 DOM tubing and the best possible construction techniques.

We spec out specific pitman arm options depending on application.

We use the shortest tie rod ends possible (not OE draglink ends) because that can be crucial for engine crossmember clearance, often the offset bend needs to start as soon as possible.  Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design for the ultimate in durability, see details on that here.

Our billet steel steering arms are built to match the rest of our system and can be built to use the OE spring or springless if you'd prefer.  You'll notice that the ORD steering arm is cut on an angle where the tie rod end seats. This is to correct for the kingpin axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical wheel travel without steering bind. We've attempted crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height with no droop available at all. This is an essential feature for a properly built fully functional system.

A set of true ARP studs tie the steering arm to the knuckle, substatially stronger than grade 8 hardware!

Long story short, our crossover steering kits are NOT generic at all.  They are a matched system that will bolt right on and get your truck steering lock to lock!

 

Here is a breakdown of the individual kit parts and prices:

Pitman arm: This is the arm attached to the steering box shaft. This is available from ORD as part of our kit or separately if you like.  This one has ~3.5" of drop, tapered to the GM tie rod end taper, 6-1/2" center to center.
U9004 - $70.00       
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High clearance pitman arm:  This is the arm attached to the steering box shaft.  We use this flatter pitman arm for low lift heights, it's also useful for clearance on solid axle conversion trucks with driver's side differentials as clearance can be tight.  This one has ~1.5" of drop, tapered to the GM tie rod end taper, 6-1/4" center to center
U9004HC- $70      Buy Now

Steering arms: These are the arms that attach to the steering knuckles on the axle.  Each one is supplied with new tapered nuts, replacement studs are available if required.  All right hand steering arms will have 2 holes so they can be upgraded to our High Steer conversion later if necessary.  All D60 arms are also drilled with the extra bolt hole to bolt on Dedenbear HD knuckles or factory GM, Ford and Dodge D60 knuckles.  Tapered for '73-'87 GM tie rod ends, not draglink ends.

Springless arms are available on request at the same price, also available drilled for 3/4" heim joint.

Right Hand (passenger side) D60 Steering Arm
U9001 - $150.00     
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ARP Stud Kit:  Set of 4 ARP high strength, 190,000+ psi studs only, nuts are available for $1/ea, make a note of that if buying online
U9002 - $33.00  
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Draglink: This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm together. We will sell the threaded tube and the ends separate if you wish. If you have a GM truck, we can usually build your draglink from lengths we have on file. For some GM applications and for other vehicle types, we will need a measurement for the draglink.  Available straight or bent.  For trucks with more than 12" of lift call us.
U9015 - $95.00     
Buy Now  *Please specify what truck you have, how much lift, what steering arm you are using and if you are using tie rod ends or heims*


Tie Rod Ends: 1 LH, 1 RH with jam nuts and castle nuts.  These are a new HD end with angle capability similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of a tie rod end.

Our tie rod ends are manufactured specifically for us.  Factory GM draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks that can cause clearance issues.  Factory GM tie rod ends are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity.  Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.

Additionally, our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts wear.  Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't hold up well, see the picture below.  Additionally, the plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw flew right through them.  Notice the appearance of the metal-on-metal end (at left), it was very difficult to cut due to the heat treat.

   U9016-P - $95/pair   
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Replacement tie rod end boots, polyurethane, black.  These work equally well on '67-'87 ('91) tie rod or draglink ends.
$10/pair  Buy Now


 

Sector shaft nut/washer for 2WD steering box (or most any Saginaw box), 7/8"-14.  $9 for the nut and washer  Buy Now

Tall Truck Crossover Steering: For trucks with over 8" of lift, we offer our crossover kit with a billet ORD riser block and ARP stud kit to raise the right side steering arm. We do not recommend using our High Steer system on kits that use our billet steering block since both arms would have to be on top of steering blocks placing even more stress on the knuckle tops. The tie rod damage solution in this situation is to run our 1.5" heavy duty tie rod in the stock location. Our HD tie rods are VERY resistant to bending and stand up to a lot of abuse.

Additionally, we do custom draglinks for trucks over 12" of lift.  Call for details.

 

Kingpin Dana 60 steering block, billet steel, 2.25" tall, for '67-'87('91) with 1 ton front axle and 5" of lift or more
U9018 - $85
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ARP stud kit for our billet steering block.  Steering blocks have a reputation for shearing the studs due to poor quality metal, this is where that stops.  We build our block to match these super strong (190,000+ psi, far beyond grade 8 strength) ARP studs and failures have been non-existent
U9002-Long - $59
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 Choose the category you would like more information on.

Doubler™ Dual Transfer Case
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect™ Kit
Shackle Flip™ Kit for ‘67-up GM trucks
Bolt-In Steering Box Brace Kit
1" Body Lift Kit
Competition Style Motor Mounts
Heavy Duty Front Shackles
Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts
Blazer Soft Tops
 

Greasable Rear Suspension Bushings
Swaybar Bushing Kits
Body Mounts
Transfer case mounts
Spring Bushings
Competition Style Bumpstops
Bushing Assemblies
Tuff Country Suspension
Coming Soon...