01-10 GMT800 GM D44 and 10 Bolt Crossover Steering
01-10 GMT800 Kingpin Dana 60 Crossover Steering
Crossover Steering is necessary with a solid axle conversion, steering off of the driver's side knuckle doesn't work at all. We have everything you need to get you steering down the road!
This kit is setup for the 2001-2010 GMT 800 2500/3500 Trucks and SUVs that have a solid axle swap (SAS) with a kingpin dana 60
Is crossover necessary for my solid axle swap truck?
Yes it is. Crossover steering is the only safe way to finish out your project
Do I need to change my steering gearbox?
Nope! The stock GMT800 steering gear box is fully splined and accepts a crossover steering pitman arm. If your steering gearbox is worn out or you would like a heavier duty version, we do carry them here: 2wd Steering Gears
Why use our crossover steering kit?
No cutting, welding, or fab work required!
These crossover steering systems are designed specifically for the GMT800 SAS Trucks and SUVs. Our draglinks are already cut to the correct length and directly threaded (not welded). If needed the draglink is bent to help tie rod end angle and to clear the engine/crossmember. Our draglinks use heavy wall 1020 DOM tubing and the best possible construction techniques.
We use heavy duty metal on metal ends
Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts wear. Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't hold up well, see the picture below. Additionally, the plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw flew right through them. Notice the appearance of the metal-on-metal end (at right), it was very difficult to cut due to the heat treat.
We use the shortest tie rod ends possible (not OE draglink ends) because that can be crucial for engine crossmember clearance, often the offset bend needs to start as soon as possible. Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design for the ultimate in durability, see details on that here.
Our tie rod ends are manufactured specifically for us. Factory GM draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks that can cause clearance issues. Factory GM tie rod ends are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity. Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.
Our ends utilize a durable Kevlar boot that will give you many years of dependable service.
Billet steering arms
The Offroad Design D60 steering arm end is cut on an angle to correct for the Kingpin axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical wheel travel without steering bind. We've attempted crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height! No droop available at all. This is an essential feature for a properly built fully functional system. 5 tapered holes to work with stock or aftermarket knuckles.
ARP Studs
We us ARP Studs with our kits to give you the ultimate in durability and strength
Our D60 arms retain the stock spring. Great for the daily driver who doesn't want to be adjusting pre-load all the time. We also carry spring eliminator kits here: Kingpin spring eliminator kit
Pitman Arm (This is the arm attached to the steering box shaft)
Steering Arm (These are the arms that attache to the steering knuckle on the axle, All right hand steering arms will have 2 holes so they can be upgraded to our High Steer conversion later if necessary. All D60 arms are also drilled with the extra bolt hole to bolt on Reid Racing HD knuckles or factory GM, Ford and Dodge D60 knuckles.)
ARP Stud Kit (Set of 4 ARP High Strength, 190,000+ psi studs)
Draglink (This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm together. We sell the tube threaded on each end with the ends installed)
Tie Rod Ends (1 LH, 1 RH with jam nuts and castle nuts. These are a new HD end with angle capability similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of a tie rod end.
Our tie rod ends are manufactured specifically for us. Factory GM draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks that can cause clearance issues. Factory GM tie rod ends are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity. Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial in many applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.
Additionally, our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts wear.)
