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Greasable Rear Suspension Bushings

Fourwheeler Magazine's Project "Stinky" gained 50 points on the test ramp and about 1 ˝" of rear shock travel just by replacing the shackle bushings.  These work!  Drilled and crossdrilled grade 8 bolts and sleeves and channeled bushings allow you to lube your poly bushings for better ride and eliminate bushing "squeak". 

Greasable Rear Suspension Bushing KitDescription:

Keeping grease in your urethane bushings is essential to reducing wear, eliminating squeak and maximizing ride quality. 

These kits consist of grooved polyurethane bushings, drilled grade 8 bolts with grease zerks, and drilled DOM steel sleeves.  Each kit replaces spring and shackle bushings on factory and aftermarket rear springs.

Read the tech notes below to find which kit to use for your truck.
These kits include 12 bushings, 6 bolts and sleeves with pinchlock nuts.

 

 

Part Number

Size

Price

GU38003

kit for 1 3/8" shackle

$75.00 Buy Now

GU38002

kit for 1 1/2" shackle

$75.00 Buy Now

Tech Notes:

All K5, Suburban, 1/2 and 3/4T (with 52" springs) vehicles up to 1980 use the #GU38002 kit since these trucks commonly have a 1 1/2" shackle bushing.

From '81 up 3/4T trucks use 1 1/2" shackle bushings.  All lighter duty ratings (1/2T, K5 and 1/2T Suburban) use the 1 3/8" shackle bushings.

All 1 ton truck applications and any 3/4T with 56" rear springs must measure bushing size before ordering the kit. We've seen 1 3/8", 1 1/2", and 1 3/4" bushing sizes, all on the same truck!  To avoid sending the wrong parts we request that you measure first. Remember the outer sleeve is removed to use urethane.

We have encountered some '88-'91 Blazers and Suburbans with a metric spring eye bushing size.  These will measure about 1.7". ORD has the proper bushings to fit these springs if you call us.

'88-up trucks or truck with '88-newer springs use different bushings, call for price and application.

Factory rubber bushings offer less flexibility than aftermarket urethane.  Most people have heard or read otherwise but rubber does not work as well in the real world.  The reason is that the factory rubber bonds the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve and spring.  Since they're bonded together, the inner sleeve can't twist relative to the spring.  When you tighten your shackle and spring bolts the inner sleeve is locked solid to the vehicle so the suspension is limited by the rubbers inability to rotate.  Urethane bushings on the other hand, can rotate freely around the inner sleeve and will not bind up the suspension.

The only difference between our two kits is the shackle bushings.  Both use 1 1/2" diameter spring bushings. Most factory and aftermarket springs use 1 1/2" spring eye bushings.

The factory rubber bushing consists of an inner steel sleeve, the rubber and a thin outer steel sleeve. The urethane bushings fit directly against the leaf spring so all 3 components of the factory bushing must be removed. There are several methods to removing factory rubber bushings.  The safest is to use a small diameter drill bit to drill out the rubber around the inner sleeve until it is loose enough to be driven out.  After it is out, the rest of the rubber can be "chunked" out with a chisel or screwdriver and the outer sleeve split and driven out. Install the new poly bushings with plenty of grease or anti-seize on the outside and inside.  They should be a snug fit but shouldn’t need to be pressed in.

Choose the category you would like more information on.

Doubler™ Dual Transfer Case
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect™ Kit
Shackle Flip™ Kit for ‘67-up GM trucks
Bolt-In Steering Box Brace Kit
1" Body Lift Kit
Competition Style Motor Mounts
Heavy Duty Front Shackles
Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts
Drivetrain Upgrades
Blazer Soft Tops
Tough-Hide™ mini panels

Greasable Rear Suspension Bushings
Swaybar Bushing Kits
Body Mounts
Transfer case mounts
Front Upper Shackle Bushing Kit
Spring Bushings
Competition Style Bumpstops
Bushing Assemblies
Tuff Country Suspension
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