Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts

We now carry Superior 4340 chromoly front axle shafts.  The info on the Warn shafts below is still correct and we will still sell the Warn shafts, but if you want the best 1/2 and 3/4 ton axle shafts, we believe the Superior axles are IT.  A unique double heat treat gives you a super strong shaft with a more durable u-joint area, the rolled splines are approximately 30% stronger than a cut spline and the profile of the shafts are matched for short axle and long axle applications to give equal durability to both sides.  Altogether, they're truly a Superior shaft.

Superior stub shafts: $135.00/each   Call 970-945-777 to order

Superior long axles: $249.00/each    Call 970-945-777 to order

Superior short axles: $214.00/each    Call 970-945-777 to order

We can also supply you with super strong CTM 300M alloy u-joints for your new HD chromoly shafts.
CTM D44 size joint: $185.00/each.

Information on the Warn chromoly shafts and general chromoly shaft tech info below:

Featured in Fourwheeler, 4x4Power, Off-road.com, and Petersen's 4Wheel and Off-road!

Part #: order by application (see tech notes below)

Application: GM Corporate 10 bolt, GM 1/2 and 3/4T D44, and Ford 1/2T and Bronco solid Dana 44 fronts.

Description: These axle shafts are forged and machined from high strength 4340 chromium-molybdenum alloy ("chrome moly") to create the strongest front axle option available for 1/2 and 3/4T front ends. They don't have the strength reducing taper near the splines like the factory shafts and the stub shafts are the largest possible diameter for the full length.

This extra material and the high strength alloy make these axles much stronger than stock. The u-joint ears are thicker than stock, specially heat treated, and cut for full circle snap rings to help eliminate failures in this area. These heavy duty axles are guaranteed not to break in the shaft or splines. If you break them, you get a new shaft.

• U-Joint Size:
  These axles use the factory size u-joint from the '73 and up model years. It's a Spicer 297 or comparable size. We've found the Spicer brand joints to be the best available, and we carry them in greasable and non-greasable versions.
   

• U-Joint Installation:
  If we ship the shafts without the u-joint installed, you will need to press the joint in. The installation is a little different than usual just because of the full circle snaprings. You have to slide the snaprings over the cross before you put the cross in the yoke, then press in the cups and put the rings in the grooves.

  

28 vs. 30 Spline:
Most stock GM 10 bolt front axles are 28 spline.  Some Blazers and Suburbans from 89-91 may have factory 30 spline front ends.  The most common way to get a 30 spline front is to swap a 30 spline rear differential in the front housing.  We can supply the shafts with 30 splines on the diff end, and cut with the correct pressure angles to match the GM diff. However, the 28 spline axles are enough stronger than the 297 u-joint that they will not break.  Retaining the 28 spline diff leaves you with the ability to run common factory axles for spares.  The only real advantage to the 30 spline axles is IF someone comes out with a much stronger ujoint, the 30 spline could have a real strength advantage over the 28 spline.  We run the 28's ourselves. At this time the 30 spline axles are a custom application and are thus more expensive than the 28's.
 

• Non Stock or Custom Applications:
  We can get the HD shafts for just about any 1/2 ton solid front axle.  We commonly work with the early Broncos, pre-73 GM's, and cut down full size axles.  The details we need to be able to work with you on custom shafts are the length of the shafts from the end of the splines to the center of the u-joint, and any application info you can give us.  If you are starting a custom axle housing, call us for info on available lengths of shafts.  If you can use a stock axle shaft, it could save you hundreds of dollars!

• Warranty Details:
  The Spicer 297 size joint usually breaks around 4,000 to 4,500 ft-lb of torque.  The HD shafts are designed to be at least 50% stronger than the u-joint, if not even more.  That's how we can warranty the shaft, the u-joint will always break first.  So: if you break the shaft or twist the splines, you get a new one.  If you break a u-joint, the shafts are yours.  Damage caused by u-joint breakage is not covered.  If you break a u-joint, the ears shouldn't distort to the point that a new joint cannot be installed.  Sometimes a little dressing up with file may be necessary.  If the ears are broken and there is an intact u-joint that you can send with the assembly, you should get a new shaft, IF they don't show signs of being beat up after a joint broke.  Make sure you stop right away if you break a joint.

Most broken axle assembly we've ever seen: Note the break at the neck, missing ujoint cap, AND twisted splines. This is a lot of hard use all added up. Thanks to Steve Frisbie for providing us with a good example of breakage, and a chance to test our on trail axle swapping skills.



Extreme Applications: We've had (and seen) excellent results with these shafts under hard use in full-sizes running up to 37" tires. Anything more than this, and you should expect to break parts.  This is just a fact of life.  Talented drivers can make 38's work, but that's really about it for hard 'wheeling.  Some wheelers make good use of the 1/2T axles in muddy terrain with larger tires, but adding rocks to the mix brings you back to the limit of about 36-38". 

That 297 u-joint just isn't up to extreme use in heavy vehicles with large (38"+) tires.  You will break far less than if you use factory axles though.  These shafts will eliminate shaft failures, and the u-joint area holds up much better with the stiffer, stronger material around the joint.  We strongly recommend frequent u-joint changes if you use your vehicle hard.  Every few months is not too often.  U-joints fatigue and corrode over time and will cause more frequent failures if you don't keep them fresh.

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