Dana 44 and Corporate 10 bolt Crossover Steering
axle GM trucks suffer from some serious steering problems, one
of the biggest is due to poor geometry. The factory GM steering
will fail to steer the truck when you're in twisted offroad
situations, in fact, there are many times when the steering box
is all the way to lock and the tires are pointed straight! Our
solution to this is a "crossover steering" system where the
draglink runs side to side instead of front to back. This
dramatically improves the steering geometry and makes turning to
the axle stops possible under all conditions.
Crossover steering is also a necessity
with a solid axle swap and we have the parts you need for your '88 and
newer truck with a solid axle conversion! Price is the same as you
see below, though you don't need to change the steering box on the 88-98
IFS (new body style) trucks.
Dana 44 crossover steering instructions
Our Dana 44 or 10 bolt crossover steering
purchase one of our Dana 44 crossover steering kits, click here
We also do complete crossover and high steer kits, for those click here
Parts that are included in our crossover steering
This is the
arm attaches to the steering box shaft. This is
available from ORD as part of our kit or separately if you like.
These come reamed for the large GM tie rod ends. This one
has ~3.5" of drop, 6-1/2" center to center.
U9004 - $70.00
High clearance pitman arm:
This is the arm attached to the steering box
shaft. We use this flatter pitman arm for low lift
heights, it's also useful for clearance on solid axle conversion
trucks with driver's side differentials as clearance can be
This one has ~1.5" of drop, tapered to the GM tie rod end taper,
6-1/4" center to center
This is the
arm that attaches to the steering knuckle on the axle. It uses
factory type studs, cone washers and locknuts to bolt to the
knuckle. Our steering arms are tapered for the large
GM tie rod ends. These are not the same as the draglink
ends, be aware. We can custom build the steering arm with
no hole if you wish, or the holes can be drilled out for a heim
joint. We've had the best luck with using factory type tie
rod ends for steering since they are a better single shear
connection and have good service life.
The Offroad Design D44 steering arm end is cut on an angle
for the ball joint axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the
rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical
wheel travel without steering bind. We've attempted
crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the
angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height!
No droop available at all. This is an essential feature
for a properly built fully functional system.
4 tapered holes to work with stock or aftermarket knuckles.
Right Hand (Passenger's Side) Dana 44 Steering Arm -
U9010-RH - $135
Stud kit: Nuts, cone
U9011 - $30
This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm
Chevy draglinks are bent to help clear the factory crossmember. We cannot
guarantee that you will not have some contact with the
crossmember, it may require some trimming to work under all
suspension conditions. '67 to '72 GM trucks can often use a
straight draglink but we send the bent version to minimize angle
on the link ends.
Available straight or bent. For trucks with more
than 12" of lift call us.
U9015 - $95.00
Buy Now *Please
specify what truck you have, how much lift, what steering arm
you are using and if you are using tie rod ends or heims*
Tie Rod Ends:
1 LH, 1 RH
with jam nuts and castle nuts. These are a new HD end with angle capability
similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of
a tie rod end.
Our tie rod
ends are manufactured specifically for us. Factory GM
draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks
that can cause clearance issues. Factory GM tie rod ends
are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity.
Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial
in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle
trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as
soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra
shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.
our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload
spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a
Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts
wear. Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't
hold up well, see the picture below. Addionally, the
plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw
flew right through them. Notice the appearance of the
metal-on-metal end, it was very difficult to cut due to the heat
U9016-P - $95/pair
Replacement tie rod end boots, polyurethane, black. These
work equally well on '67-'87 ('91) tie rod or draglink ends.
For trucks with taller lifts, we use this
billet steel riser block to reduce bump steer and improve the geometry
of the steering, leading to better drivability and longer joint life
U9013-3" - $75
ARP stud kit to match the 3" riser block,
steering blocks get their reputation from cheap studs, these are
considerably better than grade 8! 3 studs. U9011-6.375" - $50
For trucks with very thick spring packs, this billet steel 1" spacer can give you the
clearance between the spring and steering that you need. U9013-1" - $45/each
ARP stud kit to match the 1" spacer. U9011-4"
The Dana 44
and GM Corporate 10 bolt crossover steering arm bolts to the top
of the knuckle on the right hand side of the axle, just like the
factory 4wd steering arm bolts to the top of the left hand
knuckle. The problem is, none of the right side knuckles are
machined for this steering arm. The right side knuckle must also
have a large cast-in flat surface on the top of the knuckle to
be machined for the crossover steering kit. This "flat top"
knuckle is commonly found on '76 and older D44 axles. ALL GM corp 10 bolts and most '77-up D44's will need the knuckles from
an older D44 in order to complete the crossover steering, or one
of the brand new beefy Reid Racing pieces below. The
"flat top" and "round top" knuckles are shown below to
illustrate the difference: The flat top knuckle you need is on
the right. We do the machine work on your knuckle if you
send it in, price is $75, and it comes back ready to bolt in.
And if you
don't have good OE knuckles, check
out our ultra-beef Reid Racing/Dedenbear knuckles
Note that the
tie rod arms on a Chevy Dana 44 are tapered from the top with
the nut on the bottom while the 10 bolts and '77 and later Chevy
Dana 44's are the opposite, if you're finding the older flat top
knuckles, you'll need to swap both onto your axle.
getting a Reid Racing knuckle from us, you can buy just the
passenger side and we'll supply it to match your OE driver's
The knuckles will
interchange with many Dana applications, even in Jeep, Ford or
Dodge, but keep in mind the tie rod arms and other seemingly
minor details could make a big difference when you try to bolt
it all together.
Also be aware that drum brake steering knuckles have a rotated
spindle hole pattern and will not work with the crossover
steering without modification. This caught one customer totally
by surprise when he tried to bolt the kit together.
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